Chiang Mai and Hot Springs

Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus

After Sukhothai we took a bus 4-5 hours north to Chiang Mai. Three nights at the Bau-Tong Lodge hotel just outside the city walls close to really excellent eateries. And being in a town does not mean the birding stops. I even managed a lifer; the fairly common Red-whiskered Bulbul, and another 22 species showed from this hotel room. With Crested Treeswift and Yellow-browed Warbler at the springs that made 25 species for the three days (list below).

Our only trip out of the town here was to Sankamphaeng Hot Springs. Organised tours were possible to here but we didn't fancy the cost of these and had heard that a public bus went. A lot of asking around and some very helpful locals eventually found us catching just about the only songthaew going that day. A great trip packed with local people taking everything from incense to barrels of live fish up into the hill villages.

The springs are thoroughly recommended. Beautiful setting in extensive gardens tucked among the hills. Not masses of birds but rich insect life and very relaxing. Fun seeing how hot you bear you feet in the water as it cooled coming down the channels from the springs and of course we had to try boiling an egg. If you do this I'd double the recommended times on this board though!

Finally the naturally heated swimming was just brilliant. All that was left then was to get back to the city. We'd been told there would only be one songthaew leaving that afternoon so we were there in good time. The truck was there but no sign of a driver. The posh coaches in the rest of the carpark suddenly looked a lot more appealing. The driver did arrive though. Staggering across the tarmac drinking beer through a straw! We then noticed all the other cans strewn in the truck. What to do? Take the ride from the drunken songthaew or remain stranded an hour's drive from our hotel.

He may have been three sheets to the wind but at least this guy knew his limitations. He took it so slowly we were holding up scooters and to be honest we felt perfectly safe. Probably not recommended though!

Crimson-tailed Marsh Hawk Orthetrum pruinosum

Fulvous Forest Skimmer Neurothemis fulvia

Rock Dove
Spotted Dove
Zebra Dove
Greater Coucal
Asian Koel
Himalayan Swiftlet
House Swift
Asian Palm-Swift
Crested Treeswift

Coppersmith Barbet
Ashy Woodswallow
Barn Swallow

Common Tailorbird
Red-whiskered Bulbul
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Streak-eared Bulbul
Yellow-browed Warbler
Common Myna
Great Myna
Oriental Magpie-Robin
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker
Olive-backed Sunbird
Scaly-breasted Munia
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
White Wagtail

Sukhothai

We finished our week with Gift Of Happiness in Nakhon Sawan. A train from here north to Phitsanulok then a local bus to the ancient capital city of Sukhothai. We stayed just inside the old walls at a beautiful welcoming teak house. Walking to the ancient sites and around the perimeter moat was easy from here and we ended up staying five nights. The wildlife was abundant, especially around the many wetland areas in and around the historic site.

On with the wildlife in a minute but should really include a few photos of the historical site first as it is stunning.

So onto the wildlife, of which there was plenty. Mostly common birds but Chestnut-tailed Starling, Thick-billed Warbler, Grey-breasted Prinia, Blyth's Paradise Flycatcher, Rosy Minivet and Black-capped Kingfisher all good to see. The kingfisher was unfortunately very wary and impossible to photograph.

Bikes enabled us to explore a little further afield. Saritphong dam and lake lies about 2km SW of the historical park and has forested and reeded edges. The insect life, particularly butterflies, was excellent here. There are also several fascinating ancient sites to the west in the hillier, wooded areas of the northern end of Ramkhamhaeng National Park with the potential for more lowland forest species.

Thick-billed Warbler Iduna aedon

Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus

Plain Prinia Prinia inornata 

Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnia malabarica

Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis

Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata

Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus

Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica

Rosy Minivet Pericrocotus roseus

(Russet-crowned) Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis

White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis

Common Commander Moduza procris

Common Picture Wing Rhyothemis variegata

Common Tiger Rhyothemis variegata

Giant Honey Bees Apis dorsata

Green Marsh Hawk Orthetrum sabina

Mango Baron Euthalia aconthea garuda

Pied Paddy Skimmer Neurothemis tullia

71 species of bird here in the 5 days.

Lesser Whistling-Duck
Little Grebe
Rock Dove
Rufous Turtle Dove
Spotted Dove
Zebra Dove
Greater Coucal
Green-billed Malkoha
Asian Koel
Plaintive Cuckoo
Asian Palm-Swift
White-breasted Waterhen
Red-wattled Lapwing
Asian Openbill
Little Cormorant
Purple Heron
Little Egret
Cattle Egret
Crested Honey-buzzard
Barn Owl
Asian Barred Owlet
Eurasian Hoopoe
Common Kingfisher
White-throated Kingfisher
Black-capped Kingfisher
Green Bee-eater
Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
Indochinese Roller
oppersmith Barbet
Rosy Minivet
Ashy Woodswallow
Common Iora
Malaysian Pied-Fantail
Black Drongo
Ashy Drongo
Hair-crested Drongo
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo
Black-naped Monarch
Blyth's Paradise-Flycatcher
Brown Shrike
Large-billed Crow
Common Tailorbird
Plain Prinia
Grey-breasted Prinia
Thick-billed Warbler
Barn Swallow
Red-rumped Swallow
Black-headed Bulbul
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Yellow-vented Bulbul
Streak-eared Bulbul
Yellow-browed Warbler
Dusky Warbler
Black-collared Starling
Chestnut-tailed Starling
Common Myna
Great Myna
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Oriental Magpie-Robin
Taiga Flycatcher
Siberian Stonechat
Pied Bushchat
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker
Olive-backed Sunbird
White-rumped Munia
Scaly-breasted Munia
Plain-backed Sparrow
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Pied Wagtail/White Wagtail
Paddyfield Pipit
Olive-backed Pipit

Phichit and Nakhon Sawan

Our week with the charity Gift of Happiness saw us based in the central northern Thai town of Phichit. The days were pretty full on travelling to remote schools distributing donated clothes, educational equipment, toys, etc. and putting on a show to make everyone laugh. There was some time to check out the wildlife though and Phitchit itself had a large shallow lake that was brimming with birds.

Saw some good birds from the second floor balcony of our hotel room too, including Peregrine, Shikra, Pied Harrier, Lineated Barbet and Oriental Darter.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus
Pond Heron Ardeola sp.

But it was the wetland that held most of the interest. My first really good encounter with Plaintive Cuckoo, a species you hear just about everywhere and love lotus beds. Both Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas were great to watch alongside the more usual Grey-headed Swamphens, White-breasted Waterhens and the occasional Yellow Bittern. A big flock of Lesser Whistling-duck was around.

Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans

Black-eared Kite Milvus migrans lineatus

Grey-headed Lapwing Vanellus cinereus

Bush-cricket

Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata

Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis ferugeiceps

Oriental Garden Lizard Calotes versicolor

Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus

Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus

Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus

Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis